I think to set the message and tone for this build is important: I want this is to be a car for life. Something I can go to Europe in but also something that can rearrange my organs at the same time. So, what does it end game look like? Somewhere between 750-1000bhp. TE37s, sensible ride height, nice seats, sound deadended and a great stereo – and of course as many touches as I can to make it OEM+ and bring it in to the modern age. This plan will go all to hell at some point, but in my head, I’m thinking:
Phase 1 – Essential Upgrades
Any 1990 designed car, even if it is as a 2002 model is still a 1990s car. It will rattle, it will squeak and it will be a little worn. Some of the switch gear, like the HVAC buttons which have gone yellow, the indicator and light stalks which are a little faded, will be renewed.
Wheels. Nothing looks better on a Supra than a set of TE37s, so that’s where I’m going, in the classis Rays Racing Bronze colour. 18×10+40 up front and 18×11.5+50, with 265/35 and 315/30 tyres. That should give me some traction. I think this time I will try the Continental Sport Contact 7, if they’re available in those sizes. The Goodyear Eagle F1 SuperSport is another option, as are the trusty Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. Let’s see who makes what tyres in that size. 305/30 is also an option.
The interior panels, doors, floor, roof will all be sound deadened. I did this on the Celica and it worked an absolute treat. Whilst it didn’t cut down on the road noise, it made the car feel more solid with fewer rattles and squeaks. I had great success with NoIco products. So I will be going down that road again. The lesson I learned from last time is that it’s not just the metal panels that you cover, it’s also in the side of the plastics, especially the longer, thinner plastics. They can vibrate and rattle on their own without too much help. It takes a couple more sheets of material to do it, but if you look at as a cost vs benefit vs time then it’s something that is totally worth it given the fact that the panels are off already.
The stereo element is next for me. And whilst I’m going to go all out here, it will be for quality and depth of sound, and not the outright noise. In my Tiguan build, I loved the sound from the Ground Zero setup I had there. I want to have some 6.5″ mid bass in the doors, 3″ driver in the A-Pillar and 1″ tweeter adjacent to that. For the rear, I’m going to put a 6.5″ coaxial in the stock location and a subwoofer like the one here, which won’t take up any of the limited boot space. These will be powered from the Audison bitONE and then 3 amps, locations to be determined.
The rest of the interior will be taken with the Recaro Sportster CS seats, most likely in the black ambla leather. Something that is a classic look, comfortable for longer journeys and will provide a but of support for motoring on around some country lanes or some fast sweeping european road.
Then I’d like to get an alcantara retrim with some contrast stitching around the interior – but I think that will end up being in Phase 3, after the Phase 2 ECU installation!
Phase 2 – Driveability and Power Upgrades
I’m just going to come out with it. 400bhp isn’t enough, and as nice as the response is of the stock twins, they’re on borrowed time now after 22 years in the car. Not to mention the 4 speed auto. We can and will do better!! But how? Well, my good friends down at SRD Tuning will be doing the work. An SRD Turbo kit, running a Puslar G40-1150 and a ZF8 Speed Conversion. Check the video below for the SRD ZF8HP conversion, with a single turbo. This turbo will suit the built engine I’ll get in Phase 3 or Phase 4, to push that power level up.
ECU wise, I’m going to go with the Emtron again, but this time I think I’ll go with the KV12 so that I can run 12 injectors, ID1050 injectors, obviously. The way it transformed how the R34 GTR drove was just crazy. It’s so smooth, revs nicely and just feels so much more refined. The 2JZ VVTi is a smoother engine than the RB26, so with Mike from SRD on the keys, it’s sure to be a huge increase in smoothness, response and just overall enjoyment. And with the Emtron we can use a torque based map to control how the power comes on, to stop it just spinning up the rears, working the power in like the OEMs do these days.
Phase 3 – Complete
This is where we’ll end up turning everything up to 11. Build the engine to a high compression SRD 3.4, with some bigger cams maybe? Trade off that higher static compression with some dynamic compression. Address whatever niggles or gremlins there are and then finally get the interior retrimmed.
I might actually end up winning another car and the plans could all change again – who knows. All I know is that I need project cars…
